Difficulty: Moderate – Prior alpine and rock climbing experience at 5.7 or higher, including belaying and rapelling skills, required.

Terrain: Moderate snow, rock climbing up to 5.7

Number of Days: 3


Set in one of the most beautiful zones of North Cascades National Park and with a striking pyramidal summit it is easy to see what landed Forbidden Peak on Steve Roper’s list of 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Couple that with remarkable rock quality and this climb should be at the top of the hit-list for any aspiring alpinist. The expedition begins with a hike through old growth forest and alpine meadows to our exquisitely scenic bivouac below the ridge. Summit day begins with an ascent up a steep snow couloir or mid-5th class rock terrain (depending on the season) to gain the ridge. Several hundred feet of exhilarating exposure and some of the best alpine rock climbing in the cascades leads to the picnic-table sized summit. We retrace our steps for the descent and enjoy the views from camp before descending the next day.

Forbidden Peak West Ridge Climb
Gazing down the ridge before descending the crux.


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