Difficulty: Beginner – open to climbers with no prior experience besides good fitness. Prior overnight camping and backpacking experience recommended.
Terrain: Glacier travel, moderate snow
Number of Days: 3 with prior mountaineering experience, 4 without.
Eldorado Peak is home to the largest glacial ice cap not on a volcano in the lower 48. This makes the peak an ideal introduction to glaciated mountaineering. The exposed climb up the glaciated East Ridge and the knife’s edge snow arete on the summit make it an unforgettable experience for both the novice and experienced climber alike. The climb begins deep in the Cascade River Valley and approaches via river crossings, through thick forest, and over boulder fields. Camp will be located at the edge of the expansive ice cap within striking distance of the summit. If mountaineering training is needed we will take a day to hone our skills in our glacial front yard before attempting the summit. Our summit push will take us up along the edge of the glacier and rock interface of the East Ridge to the iconic summit arete. We will spend one additional night at camp after summiting before descending to our vehicles.
