Denali Expedition Skills Course – Three Day
This program is designed for climbers planning to tackle the tallest peak in North America. Denali, largely considered the most challenging of the seven summits, involves all of the tools in a mountaineer’s quiver. In this program we will focus on developing the technical skills and habits necessary for the demanding environment of a high altitude near-arctic expedition. This three day course covers everything from ice axe and crampon technique to fixed line travel and expedition camp set-up. New skills are put to the test with a culminating attempt on Mount Washington or another peak in the Presidential Range.
Day 1: We begin by reviewing the program itinerary, packing and expedition kit considerations, knots/hitches, and basic glacier travel concepts. The remainder of the day is spent in the field going over rope travel techniques, sled rigging and hauling, and other movement techniques and skills. Before departing for our respective lodging in the Mount Washington Valley we will review the plan and objective for the next day.
Day 2: We meet early at a predetermined time to approach our basecamp. Our camp location and summit objective will depend on conditions. Upon reaching camp we set-up our tents, kitchen and other elements of an expedition basecamp before continuing our training. The remainder of the day is spent learning cramponing techniques, self-arrest, running belays, fixed line travel and other skills necessary for safe efficient movement in the mountains. After some warm food, a hot beverage, and discussion of the next day’s objective it’s early to bed for our summit attempt the following day.
Day 3: Summit day! Today we put all of our accumulated skills to the test and attempt to summit Mount Washington or another peak in the Presidential Range. Before parting ways to enjoy hot (non freeze-dried) food and a cold beverage at a local watering hole we will debrief the seminar and discuss goals and next steps in your mountain education.
As you prepare for this program, learning as much as you can about the unique challenges of Denali and acquiring your kit well in advance is key to success. We highly recommend researching the route, gear and the various logistical considerations that go into a Denali Expedition so you can arrive primed to learn as much as possible. An excellent place to get started is the one-stop shop, summitdenali.com put together by our partners at Mountain Trip who have been guiding Denali expeditions since 1976.